Thursday, January 11, 2018

House of Yakitori (Colorado Springs, CO)

I believe the onion ring is a dish that can transcend borders, language, and culture. It is but one of many manifestations of the cosmopolis of markets and exchange that tie the world together. The circular nature of the onion ring may even be thought of as representing the inherent ties between and among all men and women on this earth.

The onion rings from the House of Yakitori encapsulate the culinary ties that bind us together, providing a Japanese twist on a Western classic. 


Presentation and Appearance: 3.5/5

The presentation and plating of these onion rings is ornate and modern, while simultaneously evoking a sense of fond comfort. Rather than the traditional heap, they are delicately balanced across the long plate, giving me pause before diving in, lest I collapse the intricacy before me. 

A loose coating of Panko breading covers the large and thick cut onions, resembling a growth of some mysterious substance across the surface of the onion rings. This perception is magnified by the inconsistent coating, with the white onions on high display. Despite the mess, there's something charming about the Panko breading, and they make the onion rings seem light and airy. 

Taste: 3/5

The overwhelming flavor of these onion rings is simply onion. Between the large and thick cut of the onions themselves, coupled with the light and patchy coating, really lets the flavor of the onion shine. These were lightly fried just long enough to unleash the delicious juices of the onion. 

The breading, however, failed to provide any substantial taste. The overwhelming taste of these onion rings was nothing more, or less, than onions and grease. The accompanying dipping sauce, presumably some sort of ranch, was creamy and well seasoned, which did further develop some flavors in the onion. 

Texture: 2.5/5

The delicate onion rings were light, and had a tendency to crumble if exposed to too much pressure. I blame this primarily on the scarce breading, which did not cover the whole of the rings, and what was there wasn't on all that tight. 

I've written voluminously in the past on the dread of "slippage", wherein the onions fall out of the batter and the parts of the onion ring separate. This is the first time I've ever encountered the opposite, where bites often led to the breading falling off, with only the onion remaining. I've dubbed this problem "shedding", and these Panko rings fall prey to this new dilemma routinely. 

As mentioned above, the thick onions that make up the core of the onion ring make for a solid bite. They are thick without being underdone, and juicy without being overcooked. The Panko breading, where present, provides a solid crunch, with a surprisingly good consistency. 

Value: 4/5

$2.65 buys a medium sized plate of surprisingly large onion rings, which more than sufficed as a shared appetizer for me and my girlfriend before our Yakitori. I would have liked a bit more breading to truly make these onion rings, rather than fried onions with a light Panko coating. 

Total: 13/20


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